The Gili Islands - Overview The three Gili islands are located of thenorthwest coast of Lombok, a little over 37 miles (60km) from Padangbaiharbour in Bali, and 20 miles from the most easterly cape of Bali.They were first discovered by back-packers back in the 1970’s, whenthey became a popular but well-kept secret among an adventurous crowdseeking to escape to an island paradise, far from the madding crowds ofKuta, Bali .The waters are crystal clear and teeming with marine life,and the beaches pure white sand where you can snorkel straight off thebeach. The Gilis are the best place in Indonesia to enjoy a tropicalisland lifestyle.Although the first to develop homestays was Gili Air (the nearestisland to Lombok), it is Gili Trawangan that subsequently became knownas the ‘party island’ – a young, energetic European crowd having waytoo much fun far away from home. Simple bungalows with generatorsupplied electricity soon proliferated catering to a crowd eager to getoff the beaten track.
The Gilis Today. In recent years the scene has changed rapidly on GiliTrawangan, whereas Gili Meno and Gili Air are developing at a farslower pace. Trawangan still maintains its timeless tropical paradisecharm, but now has a wider range of facilities to cater to a broaderspectrum of travellers. There’s still plenty of back-packer roomspriced around US$10 / night, but there are also some very chicbungalows, villas and hotels complete with private swimming pools andall mod cons. All have been constructed in harmony with the islands’local charms – natural materials and simple elegance being the dominanttheme of most developments. No high rise hotels, and definitely no tourbuses or McDonald’s, but plenty of Dive Centres to help you explore theislands’ famous coral reefs.Getting around. Motorised transport is banned from all three islands –you get around on foot, by bicycle or by horse-cart. Bicycles can behired for Rp. 10,000 – 15,000 / hour, or you can get much better dailyrates. Horse-carts, known as ‘Cidomos’, charge according to distance.Agree the price before you leave with a bit of friendly bargaining.
The walk around Trawangan takes anything from 90 minutes to all day, depending on your pace… it’s about 8 km in circumference.To get between the islands, you can either charter a local boat foraround Rp.175,000, or take the twice daily ‘Hopping’ boat which costsjust Rp. 20,000 per person. Ask at your hotel or at the harbour for thelatest schedules.
Gili Trawangan is roughly divided into four different areas - South Beach, Sentral, Snorkelling Beach and Secluded, which covers everything north of Villa Almarik. The majority of the dive shops are located in Sentral, and all dive operators have rooms available. There are two “boutique” hotels on Trawangan, Vila Ombak in South Beach, and Villa Almarik to the north. There is also one villa complex with eight spacious luxury villas, each with its own swimming pool.
Room options run the gamut from basic bamboo huts to fully air conditioned rooms with hot water, satellite TV and swimming pools. Sentral has the majority of the “losmen” style rooms which are primarily fan cooled with a “mandi” style bathroom. These rooms are the cheapest option, and can be had for under $10 in low season. The next level of comfort is roughly $20-30 and for this you get A/C and hot water, and sometimes mosquito nets. Things get trickier in high season when surcharges apply and there are not enough rooms to handle the demand. This can lead to price gouging in some of the cheaper accommodation.
Some “hotels” such as Vila Ombak, Dream Bungalows and Goodheart have “lumbung” style rooms. This is basically an elevated Balinese wooden rice-barn fitted out with a small verandah, beds and connected by ladder to a bathroom on the ground floor. They are air conditioned and comfortable and feel exotic. Marta’s Bungalows does the ultimate “lumbung” which is a concrete version complete with marble bathrooms, and two bedrooms.
How to choose ?? Well, it all depends upon your budget and what you want to do. Many visitors come to Gili T for dive certification, and staying with the dive operator is the logical choice in this instance. Otherwise, it’s a trade-off between luxury, comfort and adventure.
The two “boutique” hotels are at opposite ends of the island and offer a choice between proximity to restaurants and nightlife, or quiet and seclusion. The other “boutique” option is The Beach House, which is South Beach in the center of the action, and has one of the best bar / restaurants on the island. Tir na nog Bar next door also has a comfortable two bedroom villa for rent. If money is no object, the Villa Kelapa is a perfect solution. The luxurious, spacious two and three bedroom villas are built around a private 15m swimming pool and garden, and well suited to the indulgence of indoor-outdoor living in manorial style.
Those opting for seclusion head to the north end of the island for spectacular sunsets and uninterrupted views of Mt Agung on Bali. Desa Dunia Beda offers exotic Javanese style wooden houses and Balikana unusual “lumbung” style rooms.
Diving
The Gilis are most renown for their diving attractions - pristine water, colourful corals and a profusion of fishlife and turtles. The choice to swim, snorkel, dive or just sunbathe is the biggest decision most tourists deal with all day. With more than seven internationally accredited dive companies, the choice is not easy!! Blue Marlin Dive and Dream Divers are probably the biggest, with Manta Dive quickly closing up the gap. Big Bubble has excellent staff and is the acknowledged leader for marine conservation on the island. Hotel Vila Ombak Dive Academy is conveniently located in the island’s largest hotel, while Trawangan Dive and Gangga Divers are at the most northerly part of the beach.
Surfing
There is a shore break on the southern tip of Gili T that has waves year round, and some of the best in Indonesia on those rare days of “the perfect conditions”. A trip to Desert Point on the SW point of Lombok provides world-class waves for those with the skills to ride them. Surfboards and instruction are readily available on Gili T.
Sea Kayaking
The women who run Karma Kayak on the northern beaches provide guided excursions around the island, depending on one’s experience and fitness levels.
Watersports
The Beach House and Vila Ombak have speedboats and recreational equipment for hire for water-sking, wake boarding, biscuiting and parasailing. Fishing expeditions can also be arranged.
Glass Bottom Boats
When visibility is good, this is a peaceful way to experience the magical underwater world, especially when children are involved.
Horseback Riding
Nothing quite compares to galloping down a deserted beach as the sun sets over Gunung Agung over on Bali. Magic !! Stud Stables has some excellent specimens to choose from!!
Golf
There are two excellent golf courses on the Lombok mainland, and the closest is only 20 minutes away by speedboat.
Trekking
Two days treks to the top of Gunung Rinjani are easily arranged while on Gili T. You can arrange a trek yourself thru Lembah Rinjani in Sembalun Lawang. Or just wander around the island on foot - its only an hour’s walk and there’s no way you can get lost!!
Pony Carts
Public transport on the Gilis is all by pony carts known locally as cidomo. This is the easiest way to see the island and a great favourite with kids.
While the Gilis offer something for everyone, they are most famous for barbequed fresh fish - you chose your own fish from the local catch displayed in big steel drums brimming with ice. The Beach House and Scallywags are the considered having the best seafood, but every dive company and the big hotels also has their own version. While the hippest restaurant on the island is perhaps Horizontal Beach Bar, the busiest is surely Tirnanog Bar where pizzas are a local favourite, and the adjoining Ryoshi Restaurant which serves excellent Japanese food. The hands down winner for best food on the island is found at the Ko-ko-mo Resort, the island’s newest all luxury villas destination. The best coffee, breakfast and sandwiches are found at Coco’s. Yet the choice is not all western style food - most restaurants serve a selection of good, wholesome Indonesian food.