East Bali and Karangasem district, is the emerging destination for the more discerning traveller to Bali.
Karangasem has it all - dramatic scenery, tens of beaches and coral reefs, WWII shipwrecks for diving, ancient sites, tropical forests, beautiful rice terraces, royal palaces and for the ultimate cultural experience, the unique Bali Aga village of Tenganan. Dominating the entire regency is the brooding presence of Mt Agung, Bali’s highest and most sacred volcano. The three main tourist areas of Karangasem are Candi dasa, Padang Bai and Amed, each having their own charm and each suitable as a base to explore the region.
Accommodation in Karangasem varies from basic backpackers losmen, to boutique hotels and even a luxury five star resort of the Aman group - Amankila. The Alila Hotel in Manggis is a boutique hotel with an excellent restaurant that is host to a world-renown cooking school. The Bloo Lagoon Village is perched on a promontory overlooking Padang Bai harbour and the island of Nusa Penida. It is a unique experiment in sustainable, eco-friendly hotels at a high standard of design and comfort. The Western architects are often in residence and happy to share their knowledge with guests.
Further east, just outside Amlapura, is the eclectic and secluded Seraya Shores hotel. In Candi Dasa itself is the sentimental favourite Watergarden Hotel and the more typical Bali-style resort Rama Candidasa. Continuing onto Amed, one discovers the health-conscious comfort of Dancing Dragon Cottages. Further afield in Tulamben, the dive capital of Bali, are boutique hotel /dive centers such as Scuba Seraya, and Villa Markisa with the more conventional European dive centers of Tauch Terminal and Mimpi Resort next to the WWII wreck.
While parts are desperately dry, east Bali is a an area of incredible natural beauty. Many of the activities available in this region revolve around exploring that beauty.
Diving. Without a doubt the East contains Bali’s best diving. The untamed wildness of Nusa Penida with its currents and cold up-wellings is home not only to magnificent pelagic animals such as mantas, oceanic sunfish and sharks, but a rich tapestry ofcolourful temperature water invertebrate life as well. The sea surrounding Candi Dasa offers exciting diving around Tepekong and is a close second to Nusa Penida. The WWII wreck found in Tulamben is SE Asia’s most dived wreck. This is undoubtedly due to its easy access from shore, as it is only a 50m fin until away.
Nearby Amed also offers gentle diving and lay-back living.
Trekking. When he visited Bali, India’s first Prime Minister, Pandit Nehru, described Bali as “the morning of the world”. One can experience the veracity of this claim with a climb to the top of Mt Agung, Bali’s tallest volcano to view an early morning dawn. There are other treks from the old Dutch hill station of Putung down to Candi Dasa, and in the hills around Sideman.
Sailing and fishing. The picturesque port of Padangbai has many jukung (traditional outrigger canoes) available for charter. Favourite sailing destinations are Gili Mimpang off Candi Dasa and Pasir Putih off Beas island. In the port are also more modern craft available for fishing charters. Due to its currents, Nusa Penida is the favourite haunt for serious game fishermen.
Sightseeing. The restored water palaces of Amlapura are time capsules of a bygone era when Balinese princes emulated the haute monde of European royalty. Tengganan, a few kilometers inland from Candi Dasa, is another time capsule and a living museum of Bali’s ancient culture. Explore the backroads from Iseh to Amlapura and visit the salak (snake fruit) capital of Bali. Along the way catch the market in Bedandem which provides a fascinating insight into mountain life. The steep, twisting road around Mt Seraya from Ujung to Amed, is one of the most spectacular in Bali.
For up-to-date information and dates of Balinese ceremonies and events in East Bali, please contact the Agung magazine website, www.agungbali.com